Winter Sabbatical 2021: Week 3

It’s hard to fathom that I’ve been here 3 weeks already. Though my only goal for this trip is to avoid seasonal depression, I still feel guilt on those days I do nothing but read or make playlists on Apple Music. I turned on the TV for the first time last weekend to binge season 4 of The Crown, which shocked my AirBNB manager. She asked, “What have you been doing this whole time…reading?” It just so happens I’ve finished 9 books since I arrived:

The Family Upstairs by Lisa Jewell

Forgiving What You Can’t Forget by Lysa Terkeurst

A Promised Land by Barack Obama

This Tender Land by William Kent Krueger

Don't Overthink It by Anne Bogel

Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows by JK Rowling (which I’d already read once before)

Murder on the Orient Express by Agatha Christie

A Raisin in the Sun by Lorraine Hansberry

Vegetable Gardening in the Southeast by Ira Wallace

I’m currently reading Willa’s Grove by Laura Munson, Ornamental Grasses of the Southeast by Peter Loewer, and an advance copy of The Folly of Hunting by my friend and coworker Adam Chapman.

Monday was an exciting day for me. When I walked on the beach that morning, I crossed paths with a woman I’ve seen in passing. In fact, she looked like one of the women that peeked in my window several days ago. Instead of the usual “Buenas Dias” I usually exchange with others, she greeted me with “Hello.” I was thrilled to have a conversation in English! She saw me searching for sea glass and told me that it was hard to find this year. Having never found sea glass on any of the public beaches I’ve been to in the states, I consider finding 4-5 pieces a day to be an abundance. We chatted briefly before continuing on our walks. 

Later that morning, I took a trip to the Farmer’s Market in Chuburna. I’d been stressing that morning, wondering if my Spanish was good enough to converse with the vendors. Getting there and back was a combination of shuttles, walking, and a motorbike taxi. As I arrived, the only people I saw outside were caucasian. Inside, none of the vendors were Mexican. Their signs were written in English, and everyone was speaking English. They must be part of the growing expat community in this area. There were soups, casseroles, baked goods, barbecued meats, and more. I blew every bit of cash I had on pierogis, cashew chicken, pulled pork, sourdough bread, brownies, and a small key lime pie. I’ve never been so excited to see American food! I will be making this part of my Monday routine for the duration of my stay. 

The vision of my memoir is becoming a little clearer. I never wanted to write a book about autism, because I don’t think the world really needs yet another book in this oversaturated market. What can I say that hasn’t already been said? But when I look at all I’ve written, the stories about Pierce and how his autism has shaped every aspect of my life seem to work best together. They’re certainly the least controversial stories about my life and thus the safest to publish. I’ve begun researching literary agents and publishing companies. It would be far easier to self-publish, and definitely the quickest way to get a finished product. It never hurts to explore all of my options, though.

Tim will be here in 7 days! I may not get a blog post up next Friday, but I’ll tell you about our visit shortly thereafter.

Winter Sabbatical 2021: Week 2

It’s sunny and beautiful as I write, which I appreciate even more than usual. Tuesday and Wednesday were gray, windy, and rainy. After staying cooped up inside for 2 days, I savored my walk on the beach Thursday. In 2 weeks time, I’ve acquired a fine collection of sea glass. My days are uneventful. Every morning, I open my kitchen windows and the sliding glass doors to the back patio. It’s a way to feel like I’m outside while I’m writing/editing. The temperatures are mild enough that I can stay cool from the cross-breeze alone. The sounds of the ocean and boats are a pleasant soundtrack. I see the maintenance man, an older gentleman, outside my window everyday, and Manuel always greets me with joy and enthusiasm. This street is a mixture of renovated beach homes and dilapidated structures waiting to be loved. I’ve had a couple of interesting encounters with some curious passers-by. As I was washing dishes one day, a car stopped and 2 women got out. One of them asked me something in Spanish, of course, and I had to explain that my Spanish isn’t great. Fortunately, one woman spoke some English, and she asked if the house was available to rent. I’d forgotten about the sign out front with a phone number for rental inquiries. I told her I was here until March. Another day, I was writing at the dining room table, when I heard voices (in English this time) coming from my front porch. I looked over just as 2 women and a young girl peeked into my windows. I think because I don’t have a car out front, they must’ve assumed no one was home. They were surprised to see me and embarrassed to be caught. We exchanged hellos before they scurried away. 

Last weekend, I picked up my first stack of warm and fresh corn tortillas. The aroma was sweet and comforting, and I wondered if anyone has thought to make a Corn Tortilla candle? I’ve made a couple of authentic dishes that I’m proud of. Last Sunday, I made huevos motuleños. I combined elements from 2 recipes I found on Pinterest (here and here) to get as close as possible to the version I had at the cafe. I was quite pleased with the results and will definitely make it again. On Monday, I made enchiladas verdes. I’d considered using a jarred sauce, but in the end I decided to try a homemade one using this recipe. There’s a definite learning curve to this oven. Now that I’ve figured out what I’m doing, my enchiladas will be much better next time. For my first go, the sauce was tangy and the corn tortillas were sweet. It’s obviously more work to make my own sauce, but I happen to have some free time. I’ve also made copious amounts of guacamole. I’m running out of ways to make meat, rice, and beans interesting. There’s a limited variety of spices here, most of them being suited to Mexican dishes. It’s difficult to make many other types of cuisine. I’ll have to get creative. 

I’ve done a little writing, keeping a daily journal of my time here. On Monday I began editing some of the material I’ve written for my one-of-these-days memoir. I’ve written loads of stories, but they can’t or shouldn’t all be published. I need to decide which stories work best together to make a cohesive book.  

There is a farmer’s market close by every Monday, so I plan to check that out next week. I’d love to see some of the Mayan ruins and cenotes (natural swimming pools in caves or sinkholes) in the area. This morning, I looked at some tours on the AirBNB app. There’s a few agencies listed in the welcome book for this house as well. I’ve contacted one to find out if they’re even doing tours right now; waiting to hear back. I’m a little intimidated by the thought of going alone, so I may wait until Tim’s visit in 2 weeks. I can’t wait to see him again. I have nothing more to report here, so adios until next week!

Winter Sabbatical 2021: Week 1

So, has anything interesting happened since I left? In my efforts to disconnect and find some peace, I had been staying away from social media and news sites. But since Reagan texted me on Wednesday, I’ve been doom-scrolling on Twitter and I hate myself for it. I won’t go into all of the emotions I’ve had over the last 48 hours. But when I woke up Thursday morning, I was greeted with an ocean so still, calm, and peaceful, I spent most of the day outside, trying to breathe it all in, willing it to consume my soul. It is becoming easier to step away from my phone.

I can’t believe I’ve been here a whole week already! I’ve had a couple of hiccups, but I love it out here. I can barely pull my eyes away from the ocean. Some mornings it’s just me with my coffee and the pelicans diving for their breakfasts. Other mornings, the locals are scavenging for conch and other shellfish. Every evening, I comb “my” little stretch of beach in search of sea glass, and I never walk away empty-handed.

I’ve only ventured out 3 times, so I haven’t experienced much of the local culture. On Saturday, I walked 1.5 miles to Cafe France, a lovely breakfast place Tim and I discovered during our reconnaissance mission last July. The same waitress greeted me; on the 3 visits I’ve made, I’ve never seen this young lady without a beaming smile. The huevos motuleños are fabulous. It took a real effort to stop myself from cleaning the plate, since I knew I had a 1.5 mile trek back to the house after breakfast. I have looked up a recipe or two for this dish, and I plan to attempt one of them this weekend. On Sunday, I walked another 1.5 miles to Costa Azul, also a restaurant Tim and I enjoyed last summer. Their camarones al coco (coconut shrimp) was just as delicious as it was in my memory. Also on Sunday, I took my first solo shuttle ride into Progresso for groceries (easy-peasy). At Bodega, I managed to fill a grocery cart, and I worried a little about how I was going to lug all of it home on a shuttle, as catching one back to Chelem from this location proved rather difficult for Tim and I last time. Fortunately, a line of taxis sat outside the exit, and I was escorted over to one right away. It cost a good bit more than the shuttle (though the US equivalent was only $4), but the hassle it saved me was well worth the extra money. My cab driver spoke a little English, which saved me from butchering the directions in Spanish. 

My one big hiccup was a 24-hour power outage. For several hours, I had one working outlet, thanks to a neighbor that allowed me to hook 4 connected extension cords to his house, so the food in my fridge didn’t spoil and I could keep my cellphone charged. As I am in a tiny rural Mexican town, the power company lacks the efficiency of NES, so it took a full day for them to get to me. I was fortunate to have mild temperatures, so I was able to maintain a good cross-breeze indoors with the windows open. Otherwise, I have had good WiFi. I’ve even been able to do a couple virtual workouts with my B.Fab crew! The house is secure. In fact, I set the alarm off when I opened the sliding glass door one morning before deactivating the system. Coffee was a formality that morning, as I was quite awake without the caffeine.

I struggled with whether or not to share my Mexico stories or pictures of the ocean while the majority of you are in coats and scarves. For most of my life, there were people who made me feel guilty for any good fortune I happened to inherit. This in turn made me apologize more than necessary, keep things to myself to prevent any jealousy, and feel terrible for flaunting. But my 40s have taught me that it is high time I stop worrying how I’m perceived. There are many people in my life who want to share in my joy, and it is for you I write this and post my pictures. Thank you, and I’ll check in with you next week!